The following article was taken from "A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland" written by Samuel Johnson (1775). In order to preserve the original version as much as possible I have not altered any of the spelling differences you will see.

The Isle of Islay

The isle of Islay lies to the west of Jura, from which it is separated by a narrow channel; it is twenty four miles in length from south to north, and eighteen from east to west; there are some little mountains about the middle on the east side. The coast is for the most part heathy and uneven, and by consequence not proper for village; the north end is also full of heaths and hills. The south-west and west is pretty well cultivated, and there is six miles between Kilrow on the west, and Port Escock in the east, which is arable and well inhabited. There is about one thousand little hills on this road, and all abound with limestone; among which there is lately discovered a lead mine in three different places, but it has not turned to any account as yet. The corn growing here is barley and oats.

There is only one harbour in this isle, called Loch-Dale; it lies near the north end, and is of a great length and breadth; but the depth being in the middle, few vessels come within half a league of the land side.

There are several rivers in this isle affording salmon. The fresh-water lakes are well stocked with trouts; eels, and some with salmons: as Loch-Guirm, which is four miles in circumference, and hath several forts built on an island that lies in it.

Loch-Finlagan, about three miles in circumference, affords salmon, trouts, and eels: this lake lies in the centre of the isle. The isle Finlagan, from which this lake hath its name, is in it. It is famous for being once the court in which the great Macdonald, King of the Isles, had his residence; his houses, chapel, etc., are now ruinous. His guards de corps, called Lucht-taeh, kept guard on the lake side nearest to the isle; the walls of their houses are still to be seen there.

The High Court of Judicature, consisting of fourteen, sat always here; and there was an appeal to them from all the Courts in the isles: the eleventh share of the sum in debate was due to the principal judge. There was a big stone of seven feet square, in which there was a deep impression made to receive the feet of Macdonald; for he was crowned King of the Isles standing in this stone, and swore that he would continue his vassals in the possession of their lands, and do exact justice to all his subjects: and then his father’s sword was put into his hand. The Bishop of Argyll and seven priests anointed him king, in presence of all the heads of the tribes in the isles and continent, and were his vassals; at which time the orator rehearsed a catalogue of his ancestors, etc.

There are several forts built in the isles that are in fresh-water lakes, as in Ilan-Loch-Guirn, and Ilan-Viceain; there is a fort called Dunnivag in the south-west side of the isle, and there are several caves in different places of it. The largest that I saw was in the north end, and is called Vah-Vearnag; it will contain 200 men to stand or sit in it. There is a kill for drying corn made on the east side of it; and on the other side there is a wall built close to the side of the cave, which was used for a bed-chamber; it had a fire on the floor, and some chairs about it, and the bed stood close to the wall. There is a stone without the cave door, about which the common people make a tour sunways.

A mile on the south-west side of the cave is the celebrated well called Toubir in Knahar, which in the ancient language is as much as to say, the well that sallied from one place to another: for it is a received tradition among the vulgar inhabitants of this isle, and the opposite isle of Colonsay, that this well was first in Colonsay, until an imprudent woman happened to wash her hands in it, and that immediately after, the well being thus abused, came in an instant to Islay, where it is like to continue, and is ever since esteemed a catholicon for diseases by the natives and adjacent islanders; and the great resort to it is commonly every quarter-day.

It is common with sick people to make a vow to come to the well, and after drinking, they make a tour sunways round it, and then leave an offering of some small token, such as a pin, needle, farthing, or the like, on the stone cover which is above the well. But if the patient is not like to recover, they send a proxy to the well, who acts as above-mentioned, and carries home some of the water to be drank by the sick person.

There is a little chapel beside this well, to which such as had found the benefit of the water, came back and returned thanks to God for their recovery.

There are several rivers on each side this isle that afford salmon. I was told by the natives that the Brion of Islay, a famous judge, is according to his own desire, buried standing on the brink of the river Laggan, having in his right hand a spear, such as they use to dart at the salmon.

There are some isles on the coast of this island, as island Texa on the south-west, about a mile in circumference; and island Ouirsa, a mile likewise in circumference, with the small isle called Nave.

The Names of the Churches in this Isle are as follows: Kil-Chollim Kill, St. Columbus his church near Port Escock, Kil-Chovan in the Rins, on the west side the isle; Kil-Chiaran in Rins, on the west side Nerbols in the Rins, St. Columbus his church in Laggan, a chapel in island Nave, and Kilhan Alen, north-west of Kilrow. There is a cross standing near St. Columbus’s or Port Escock side, which is ten feet high. There are two stones set up at the east side of Loch-Finlagan, and they are six feet high.

All the inhabitants are Protestants; some among them observe the festivals of Christmas and Good Friday. They are well proportioned and indifferently healthful.

The air here is not near so good as that of Jura, from which it is but a short mile distant; but Islay is lower and more marshy, which makes it liable to several diseases that do not trouble those of Jura. They generally speak the Irish tongue; all those of the best rank speak English; they use the same habit and diet with those of Jura.

This isle is annexed to the Crown of Scotland. Sir Hugh Campbell of Caddell is the King’s steward there, and has one half of the island. This isle is reckoned the furthest west of all the isles in Britain. There is a village on the west coast of it called Cul, i.e., the back part; and the natives say it was so called because the ancients thought it the back of the world, as being the remotest part on that side of it. The natives of Islay, Colonsay, and Jura say that there is an island lying to the southwest of these isles, about the distance of a day’s sailing, for which they have only a bare tradition. Mr. MacSwen, present minister in the isle Jura, gave me the following account of it, which he had from the master of an English vessel that happened to anchor at that little isle, and came afterwards to Jura, which is thus:

As I was sailing some thirty leagues to the southwest of Islay, I was becalmed near a little isle, where I dropped anchor and went ashore. I found it covered all over with long grass. There was abundance of seals lying on the rocks and on the shore; there is likewise a multitude of sea-fowls in it; there is a river in the middle, and on each side of it I found great heaps of fish bones of many sorts; there are many planks and boards cast up upon the coast of the isle, and it being all plain, and almost level with the sea, I caused my men (being then idle) to erect a heap of the wood about two stories high; and that with a design to make the island more conspicuous to seafaring men.

This isle is four English miles in length, and one in breadth. I was about thirteen hours sailing between this isle and Jura. Mr. John MacSwen, above mentioned, having gone to the isle of Colonsay some few days after, was told by the inhabitants that from an eminence near the monastery in a fair day they saw as it were the top of a little mountain in the south-west sea, and that they doubted not but it was land, though they never observed it before. Mr. MacSwen was confirmed in this opinion by the account above-mentioned; but when summer was over, they never saw this little hill, as they called it, any more; the reason which is supposed to be this, that the high winds in all probability has cast down the pile of wood that forty seamen had erected the preceding year in that island, which, by reason of the description above recited, we may aptly enough call the Green Island.

Hello again. This issue of the Laird of Isle of Jura Newsletter brings you news about some new houses being built on the Isle of Jura along with a new ambulance, Arthur retires (who is Arthur? read on!) and the mysterious missing Jura Skull and bones.

News for March/April 2005

Isle of Jura Gifts

Isle of Jura Gifts is now online. We have a wide selection of books and gifts from the island and hope to expand our range shortly. Find us at www.isleofjuragifts.com

New houses on Isle of Jura

It is amazing the number of new houses that have been built, are being built or are planned to be built in such a small community ( Population about 170). At last count there are about 20 with over 50% of them being used or planned to be used as permanent residencies. It is also good to see the number of younger folk who are involved in this building frenzy. Don’t worry, though. In no way can this be seen as over development on such a sparsely populated island!

New ambulance for the Isle of Jura

The Isle of Jura is to get its own island based ambulance through the Scottish Community Ambulance Initiative. Support has come from all areas with free ferry travel being supplied by the ferry companies and a years supply of fuel donated by a local distributor. All that remains to be done is to train the volunteer crew in time for the ambulances arrival.

Arthur retires

After 36 years of plying the sound between Isle of Jura and Islay on the ferry, Arthur has finally hung up his skippers cap. He will be sorely missed and a party was held for him in the village hall in March.

The Lairds View

I will be back on Isle of Jura again at the end of the month visiting relatives and hopefully catching a trout or 2! Surely the weather will cooperate this time and I will get some nice pictures for the web site and newsletters.

The picnic table will be put into place and the bracken cut back so that any of you visiting Lairds or Ladies can fully enjoy the fine views.

I would be interested to here from anyone planning to visit this summer. Don’t forget to quote your 10% discount voucher if you are booking into the hotel!

Stories from Isle of Jura

For many years a skull and 2 limb bones sat on a rock protected by an overhang near the shore at Glengarrisdale on the west coast of the Isle of Jura. It is believed they were turned up when ploughing and could have belonged to the victim of a long ago massacre, as the skull had a slash in it which could have been made by a sword. Sadly they are no longer there.

Next time I will report on the annual Fell race and hopefully have these promised pictures!

Slainte David

The following article was taken from "A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland" written by Samuel Johnson (1775). In order to preserve the original version as much as possible I have not altered any of the spelling differences you will see.

The Isle of Colonsay

About two leagues to the north of Islay lies the isle Oronsay. It is separated from Colonsay only at the tide of flood. This peninsula is four miles in circumference, being for the most part a plain arable, dry, sandy soil, and is fruitful in corn and grass; it is likewise adorned with a church, chapel, and monastery. They were built by the famous St. Columbus, to whom the church is dedicated. There is an altar in this church, and there has been a modern crucifix on it, in which several precious stones were fixed; the most valuable of these is now in the custody of MacDuffie, in black Raimused village, and it is used as a catholicon for diseases. There are several burying-places here, and the tombstones for the most part have a two-handed sword engraven on them. On the south side of the church within lie the tombs of MacDuffie and of the cadets of his family; there is a ship under sail and a two-handed sword engraven on the principal tombstone and this inscription, Hic jacit Malcolumbus MacDuffie de Collonsay; his coat of arms and colour-staff is of red in a stone, through which a hole is made to hold it. There is a cross at the east and west sides of this church, which are now broken; their height was about 12 feet each; there is a large cross on the west side of the church, of an entire stone very hard; there is a pedestal of three steps, by which they ascend to it, it is 16 feet high, and a foot and a half broad; there is a large crucifix on the west side of this cross, it has an inscription underneath, but not legible, being almost worn off by the injury of time; the other side has a tree engraven on it.

About a quarter of a mile on the south side of the church there is a cairn, in which there is a stone cross fixed, called MacDuffie’s Cross; for when any of the heads of this family were to be interred, their corpse was laid on this cross for some moments, in their way toward the church.

On the north side of the church there is a square stone wall, about two stories high; the area of it is about fourscore paces, and it is joined to the church wall: within this square there is a lesser square of one stored high, and about 60 paces wide, three sides of it are built of small pillars, consisting of two thin stones each, and each pillar vaulted above with two thin stones tapering upwards. There are inscriptions on two of the pillars, but few of the letters are perfect. There are several houses without the square which the monks lived in. There is a garden at twenty yards distance on the north side the houses.

The natives of Colonsay are accustomed, after their arrival in Oronsay Isle, to make a tour sunways about the church, before they enter upon any kind of business. My landlord having one of his family sick of a fever asked my book, as a singular favour, for a few moments. I was not a little surprised at the honest man’s request, he being illiterate; and when he told me the reason of it I was no less amazed, for it was to fan the patent’s face with the leaves of the book, and this he did at night. He sought the book next morning, and again in the evening, and then thanked me for so great a favour; and told me the sick person was much better by it, and thus I understood that they had an ancient custom of fanning the face of the sick with the leaves of the Bible.

The Isle Colonsay is four miles in length from east to west, and above a mile in breadth. The mould is brown and sandy on the coast, and affords but a very small product, though they plough their ground three times; the middle is rocky and heathy, which in most places is prettily mingled with thick evergreens of erica-baccifera, juniper, and cat’s tail.

The cattle bred here are cows, horses, and sheep, all of a low size. The inhabitants are generally well proportioned, and of a black complexion; they speak only the Irish tongue, and use the habit, diet etc., that is used in the Western Isles: they are all Protestants, and observe the festivals of Christmas, Easter, and Good Friday; but the women only observe the festival of the nativity of the blessed Virgin. Kilouran is the principal church in this isle, and the village in which this church is, hath its name from it. There are two ruinous chapels in the south side of this isle. There were two stone chests found lately in Kilouran sands, which were composed of five stones each, and had human bones in them. There are some fresh-water lakes abounding with trouts in thus isle. There are likewise several forts here, one of which is called Duncoll; it is near the middle of the isle, it hath large stones in it, and the wall is seven feet broad.

The other fort is called Dun-Evan: the natives have a tradition among them, of a very little generation of people, that lived once here, called Lusbirdan, the same with pygmies. This isle is the Duke of Argyll’s property.

Laird of Jura newsletter no.6 December 2005

Welcome to your Laird of Jura newsletter. In this December 2005 issue I will be covering the New Jura Care Centre, plans to improve tourism (so you have even more to see when you visit your Scottish Estate) and more about the island history.

Jura Care Centre

The construction of a new 6 unit progressive care centre has begun. This £1.8 million project will enable older people to remain on the island during a period of their life when their need for support increases. At the moment, the only place such people can go is on the neighbouring island of Islay. In addition to the centre, 2 affordable rented houses will be constructed on the site along with a roads and infrastructure package to allow the future construction of 4 further housing units. The care centre project has been in the pipeline for about 10 years and it is good to see all the directors’ hard work finally coming to fruition.

Tourism

There is now a new full colour leaflet about Jura including an accommodation insert aimed at promoting the island to potential visitors. If you would like a copy please drop me an email via www.isleofjuragifts.com and I will see what I can do. There are also plans for interpretation cairns to be set up throughout the island.

Jura History

An Carn The village is about 2 miles north of Lealt, at the north end of the island, on a bluff overlooking the sea. It can be reached by proceeding beyond ‘road end’ for about 1 mile until you reach the place that used to be called ‘Old Stables’. From here you can travel west to Glengarrisdale or east to An Carn which is about 1 mile from the road over tussocky grass which makes for difficult walking. The ruins of the buildings are clearly seen as the stone has not been taken to be used elsewhere as has happened in other deserted villages such as Barnhill. The distance from the road has saved the ruins of the 8 structures which made up the village. We know very little about this village. It does not appear on any of the census records so we can assume that the village was abandoned before the first census of 1841. It does, however, appear on some early maps. On Pont’s map of 1590 it appears as Karn and on later maps as Cairns. Associated with the village and across the stream to the south is the remains of a corn drying kiln - now in the edge of a forest plantation - and lazibeds show evidence of a fair amount of cultivation between the village and the stream. To the N E of the village there is a small bay which is one of the few places where a boat could be landed between Ardlussa and Kinuachdrach. At the head of this bay is a cave which was excavated by John Mercer and in which he found items of a late medieval date. These include a medieval arrow head and a pair of iron shears. Associated with the village on its western side are 9 separate groups of cup marks. This is the largest group of cup markings to be found on Jura so far. The reason for cup markings and their significance is not known.

Lairds View

Looking south from the Lairds View on a sunny summers day.

Isle of Jura Gifts

We now have some new lines including an Isle of Jura jigsaw. There is the possibility of having a Laird of Jura jigsaw made if there is enough interest. Please visit www.isleofjuragifts.com for a browse and email us if you are interested. It only remains for me to wish all you Lairds and Ladies a very merry Christmas and a happy new year. Slainthe David

What do you really think will give Isle of Jura whisky that taste that makes it unique amongst all  whiskies (whether a scotch whisky or not)?

The aging of whisky and the effect that has on the final taste of the whisky is to many people the most surprising part of the whole production process. Some experts have stated that how and where the aging process takes place can contribute as much as 50% of the overall taste differences between brands.

The Isle of Jura whisky distillery uses a mix of oak casks. About 10% of them are former Sherry casks the rest of them are American Bourbon casks. The majority of the latter are being re-used so will have lost virtually all their original vanilla flavour. This produces a much finer and purer taste that does not need to be enhanced by other "foreign" tastes.

Why use a oak cask for aging whisky?

Firstly it is not airtight. The oak allows for surrounding air to enter the cask . It also allows some 1% or 2% of the "whisky" to evaporate and escape excise duty but as alcohol evaporates faster than the water its strength in the whisky can in theory decrease the longer the whisky is stored in the cask.

Where the casks are stored can also make a difference. Casks stored on a dry concrete floor encourages water to evaporate creating a dryer whisky with a higher alcohol content. Casks stored in a warehouse with a solid earth floor will lose more alcohol than water. In the same way warehouses near the sea such as those used by the Isle of Jura whisky distillery company will have a slight salt taste of some whisky compared with those on the mainland.

By the way if you are going around the Isle of Jura distillery have a look at the original whisky maturing warehouse shed now being used as a repairing cooperage. Its craftsman built roof joists spanning such a sizeable shed are magnificent to look at and date back to 1810 when the original whisky distillery was built.

Whisky is not actually bottled on the Isle of Jura but is transferred to the mainland. Whilst the bottles labelled Isle of Jura Whisky are a malt whisky (i.e. not mixed with other types of whisky) the whisky is also used in blended whisky in other brands owned by the parent company. For commercial reasons the company is fairly secret about which malt whisky is used in their various brands.

Continue the tour of our Isle of Jura Distillery