The following article was taken from "A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland" written by Samuel Johnson (1775). In order to preserve the original version as much as possible I have not altered any of the spelling differences you will see.

The Isle of Colonsay

About two leagues to the north of Islay lies the isle Oronsay. It is separated from Colonsay only at the tide of flood. This peninsula is four miles in circumference, being for the most part a plain arable, dry, sandy soil, and is fruitful in corn and grass; it is likewise adorned with a church, chapel, and monastery. They were built by the famous St. Columbus, to whom the church is dedicated. There is an altar in this church, and there has been a modern crucifix on it, in which several precious stones were fixed; the most valuable of these is now in the custody of MacDuffie, in black Raimused village, and it is used as a catholicon for diseases. There are several burying-places here, and the tombstones for the most part have a two-handed sword engraven on them. On the south side of the church within lie the tombs of MacDuffie and of the cadets of his family; there is a ship under sail and a two-handed sword engraven on the principal tombstone and this inscription, Hic jacit Malcolumbus MacDuffie de Collonsay; his coat of arms and colour-staff is of red in a stone, through which a hole is made to hold it. There is a cross at the east and west sides of this church, which are now broken; their height was about 12 feet each; there is a large cross on the west side of the church, of an entire stone very hard; there is a pedestal of three steps, by which they ascend to it, it is 16 feet high, and a foot and a half broad; there is a large crucifix on the west side of this cross, it has an inscription underneath, but not legible, being almost worn off by the injury of time; the other side has a tree engraven on it.

About a quarter of a mile on the south side of the church there is a cairn, in which there is a stone cross fixed, called MacDuffie’s Cross; for when any of the heads of this family were to be interred, their corpse was laid on this cross for some moments, in their way toward the church.

On the north side of the church there is a square stone wall, about two stories high; the area of it is about fourscore paces, and it is joined to the church wall: within this square there is a lesser square of one stored high, and about 60 paces wide, three sides of it are built of small pillars, consisting of two thin stones each, and each pillar vaulted above with two thin stones tapering upwards. There are inscriptions on two of the pillars, but few of the letters are perfect. There are several houses without the square which the monks lived in. There is a garden at twenty yards distance on the north side the houses.

The natives of Colonsay are accustomed, after their arrival in Oronsay Isle, to make a tour sunways about the church, before they enter upon any kind of business. My landlord having one of his family sick of a fever asked my book, as a singular favour, for a few moments. I was not a little surprised at the honest man’s request, he being illiterate; and when he told me the reason of it I was no less amazed, for it was to fan the patent’s face with the leaves of the book, and this he did at night. He sought the book next morning, and again in the evening, and then thanked me for so great a favour; and told me the sick person was much better by it, and thus I understood that they had an ancient custom of fanning the face of the sick with the leaves of the Bible.

The Isle Colonsay is four miles in length from east to west, and above a mile in breadth. The mould is brown and sandy on the coast, and affords but a very small product, though they plough their ground three times; the middle is rocky and heathy, which in most places is prettily mingled with thick evergreens of erica-baccifera, juniper, and cat’s tail.

The cattle bred here are cows, horses, and sheep, all of a low size. The inhabitants are generally well proportioned, and of a black complexion; they speak only the Irish tongue, and use the habit, diet etc., that is used in the Western Isles: they are all Protestants, and observe the festivals of Christmas, Easter, and Good Friday; but the women only observe the festival of the nativity of the blessed Virgin. Kilouran is the principal church in this isle, and the village in which this church is, hath its name from it. There are two ruinous chapels in the south side of this isle. There were two stone chests found lately in Kilouran sands, which were composed of five stones each, and had human bones in them. There are some fresh-water lakes abounding with trouts in thus isle. There are likewise several forts here, one of which is called Duncoll; it is near the middle of the isle, it hath large stones in it, and the wall is seven feet broad.

The other fort is called Dun-Evan: the natives have a tradition among them, of a very little generation of people, that lived once here, called Lusbirdan, the same with pygmies. This isle is the Duke of Argyll’s property.

At one time, every household on the Isle of Jura made enough "Scotch" whisky for their own needs. What happened to that?

However that was before the Scottish Parliament made their first tax levy on Scotch whisky in 1644. Then at various times during the 1700’s when the harvest was poor the producing of whisky was legally banned in order to save barley for food.

Many illegal whisky stills were then being operated and there are places on Isle of Jura where evidence of these stills can still be seen. In 1823 a licence fee of £10 was required to legally set up a whisky still. In spite of this, illicit distilling still took place with some of the whisky being consumed on the Isle of Jura the rest being smuggled to the Lowlands of Scotland.

The original Isle of Jura distillery was built in the early 1800’s close to a cave where illegal distilling had probably taken place for many years. It was built by Campbell, the Laird and Chief of the Campbell clan, and let out to many people over the years.    It is recorded it could produce 720 gallons of Scotch whisky per week.

It was then leased to James Ferguson in 1875 and was rebuilt in 1884, producing some 64,000 gallons per year.  When the lease expired, the Laird (owner) attempted to put up the rent. Ferguson would have none of it and dismantled and sold the machinery.  The roof was removed to avoid rates and it seemed as if distilling on Jura had come to an end.

The present Isle of Jura Whisky distillery was built on the site of the old one in 1963, with additions in 1971.  It has changed hands a number of times and is currently owned by Whyte and Mackay one of the major Scotch Whisky firms.

Note: The Isle of Jura Distillery is fairly close to the Isle of Jura Hotel where you can redeem the accommodation discount voucher supplied to all our Laird of Jura members.

 

Discover more about Scotch whisky distilleries on DVD

"Every line of strength in American history is a line coloured with Scottish blood."
 President Woodrow Wilson praising the contribution of the Scottish Nation to the history of the USA

Why have countries set aside a special day called "Tartan Day"?

The effect of Scots moving the new emerging countries such as Canada and USA clearly effected almost every part of its culture and growth. It could even be said that the Scottish immigrants — many who still wore the tartan kilt in the new world — had a greater effect on the development of these new world countries than any other immigrant group from anywhere in the world.

Lets consider the effect of
Scots on the USA.

• Anyone looking at the map of North Carolina will find that there are 130 towns or places beginning with either "Mac" or "Mc".

• Nearly half of the Secretaries of the US Treasury and one third of the the Secretaries of State of United States have been of Scots origin.

• Nine of the thirteen Governors of the newly created United States were Scots or of Scottish descent.

• Of the fifty six signatories of the Declaration of Independence nine were directly or indirectly descended from Scots.

• At least eleven Presidents of the USA have had Scots ancestry

Our Laird of Jura book lists even more achievements but we lack space here to repeat them all.

Some people think of the Tartan Day as being a day to remember! A day to celebrate! Scotsmen and women left their native country to travel to faraway places around the world including the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. However as Scots they brought with them elements of their culture not just the tartan kilt and bagpipes but their skills their tenacity and hard work.

National Tartan Day on April 6th is about celebrating their achievements.

There are nearly as many descendants of Scots living in Canada as there are people living in Scotland; almost 5 million. In the US there are more than 12 million people of Scottish descent. 

Many Scottish groups and societies campaigned for recognition of their importance in the development of their country. Central to their campaign was the recognition of the anniversary of the Declaration of Arbroath (1320) as their national date to celebrate their Scottish roots.

A small part of that Declaration of Arbroath, states "For so long as one hundred men remain alive, we shall never under any conditions submit to the domination of the English. It is not for glory or riches or honours that we fight, but only for liberty, which no good man will consent to lose but with his life."

Canada was the first to recognise April 6th as the special Tartan Day.

America followed suit on March 20th 1998, when Senate Resolution 155 (S.Res. 155), proposed by US Senate Republican majority leader Trent Lott, was passed unanimously.

The full resolution as passed in the US Senate, with its preamble, is as follows:

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S. Res. 155
Whereas April 6 has a special significance for all Americans, and especially those Americans of Scottish descent, because the Declaration of Arbroath, the Scottish Declaration of Independence, was signed on April 6, 1320 and the American Declaration of Independence was modelled on that inspirational document;

Whereas this resolution honors the major role that Scottish Americans played in the founding of this Nation, such as the fact that almost half of the signers of the Declaration of Independence were of Scottish descent, the Governors in 9 of the original 13 States were of Scottish ancestry, Scottish Americans successfully helped shape this country in its formative years and guide this Nation through its most troubled times;

Whereas this resolution recognizes the monumental achievements and invaluable contributions made by Scottish Americans that have led to America’s preeminence in the fields of science, technology, medicine, government, politics, economics, architecture, literature, media, and visual and performing arts;

Whereas this resolution commends the more than 200 organizations throughout the United States that honor Scottish heritage, tradition, and culture, representing the hundreds of thousands of Americans of Scottish descent, residing in every State, who already have made the observance of Tartan Day on April 6 a success;

Whereas these numerous individuals, clans, societies, clubs, and fraternal organizations do not let the great contributions of the Scottish people go unnoticed:

Now, therefore, be it Resolved, That the Senate designates April 6 of each year as "National Tartan Day."

---

Scotland has tried to establish a similar celebration Tartan Day over the last couple of years but it has yet to take off in any major way.   Arbroath of course taking the lead followed by other large towns.

The third largest city in Scotland Aberdeen has just just decided to launch its own Tartan day celebration but going against the international consensus of going for April 6th — the anniversary of the Declaration of Arbroath — but choosing a day in August.  WHY?

See our pages on the Tartan and The Kilt here

Laird of Jura newsletter no.6 December 2005

Welcome to your Laird of Jura newsletter. In this December 2005 issue I will be covering the New Jura Care Centre, plans to improve tourism (so you have even more to see when you visit your Scottish Estate) and more about the island history.

Jura Care Centre

The construction of a new 6 unit progressive care centre has begun. This £1.8 million project will enable older people to remain on the island during a period of their life when their need for support increases. At the moment, the only place such people can go is on the neighbouring island of Islay. In addition to the centre, 2 affordable rented houses will be constructed on the site along with a roads and infrastructure package to allow the future construction of 4 further housing units. The care centre project has been in the pipeline for about 10 years and it is good to see all the directors’ hard work finally coming to fruition.

Tourism

There is now a new full colour leaflet about Jura including an accommodation insert aimed at promoting the island to potential visitors. If you would like a copy please drop me an email via www.isleofjuragifts.com and I will see what I can do. There are also plans for interpretation cairns to be set up throughout the island.

Jura History

An Carn The village is about 2 miles north of Lealt, at the north end of the island, on a bluff overlooking the sea. It can be reached by proceeding beyond ‘road end’ for about 1 mile until you reach the place that used to be called ‘Old Stables’. From here you can travel west to Glengarrisdale or east to An Carn which is about 1 mile from the road over tussocky grass which makes for difficult walking. The ruins of the buildings are clearly seen as the stone has not been taken to be used elsewhere as has happened in other deserted villages such as Barnhill. The distance from the road has saved the ruins of the 8 structures which made up the village. We know very little about this village. It does not appear on any of the census records so we can assume that the village was abandoned before the first census of 1841. It does, however, appear on some early maps. On Pont’s map of 1590 it appears as Karn and on later maps as Cairns. Associated with the village and across the stream to the south is the remains of a corn drying kiln - now in the edge of a forest plantation - and lazibeds show evidence of a fair amount of cultivation between the village and the stream. To the N E of the village there is a small bay which is one of the few places where a boat could be landed between Ardlussa and Kinuachdrach. At the head of this bay is a cave which was excavated by John Mercer and in which he found items of a late medieval date. These include a medieval arrow head and a pair of iron shears. Associated with the village on its western side are 9 separate groups of cup marks. This is the largest group of cup markings to be found on Jura so far. The reason for cup markings and their significance is not known.

Lairds View

Looking south from the Lairds View on a sunny summers day.

Isle of Jura Gifts

We now have some new lines including an Isle of Jura jigsaw. There is the possibility of having a Laird of Jura jigsaw made if there is enough interest. Please visit www.isleofjuragifts.com for a browse and email us if you are interested. It only remains for me to wish all you Lairds and Ladies a very merry Christmas and a happy new year. Slainthe David

The following article was taken from "A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland" written by Samuel Johnson (1775). In order to preserve the original version as much as possible I have not altered any of the spelling differences you will see.

The Isle of Islay

The isle of Islay lies to the west of Jura, from which it is separated by a narrow channel; it is twenty four miles in length from south to north, and eighteen from east to west; there are some little mountains about the middle on the east side. The coast is for the most part heathy and uneven, and by consequence not proper for village; the north end is also full of heaths and hills. The south-west and west is pretty well cultivated, and there is six miles between Kilrow on the west, and Port Escock in the east, which is arable and well inhabited. There is about one thousand little hills on this road, and all abound with limestone; among which there is lately discovered a lead mine in three different places, but it has not turned to any account as yet. The corn growing here is barley and oats.

There is only one harbour in this isle, called Loch-Dale; it lies near the north end, and is of a great length and breadth; but the depth being in the middle, few vessels come within half a league of the land side.

There are several rivers in this isle affording salmon. The fresh-water lakes are well stocked with trouts; eels, and some with salmons: as Loch-Guirm, which is four miles in circumference, and hath several forts built on an island that lies in it.

Loch-Finlagan, about three miles in circumference, affords salmon, trouts, and eels: this lake lies in the centre of the isle. The isle Finlagan, from which this lake hath its name, is in it. It is famous for being once the court in which the great Macdonald, King of the Isles, had his residence; his houses, chapel, etc., are now ruinous. His guards de corps, called Lucht-taeh, kept guard on the lake side nearest to the isle; the walls of their houses are still to be seen there.

The High Court of Judicature, consisting of fourteen, sat always here; and there was an appeal to them from all the Courts in the isles: the eleventh share of the sum in debate was due to the principal judge. There was a big stone of seven feet square, in which there was a deep impression made to receive the feet of Macdonald; for he was crowned King of the Isles standing in this stone, and swore that he would continue his vassals in the possession of their lands, and do exact justice to all his subjects: and then his father’s sword was put into his hand. The Bishop of Argyll and seven priests anointed him king, in presence of all the heads of the tribes in the isles and continent, and were his vassals; at which time the orator rehearsed a catalogue of his ancestors, etc.

There are several forts built in the isles that are in fresh-water lakes, as in Ilan-Loch-Guirn, and Ilan-Viceain; there is a fort called Dunnivag in the south-west side of the isle, and there are several caves in different places of it. The largest that I saw was in the north end, and is called Vah-Vearnag; it will contain 200 men to stand or sit in it. There is a kill for drying corn made on the east side of it; and on the other side there is a wall built close to the side of the cave, which was used for a bed-chamber; it had a fire on the floor, and some chairs about it, and the bed stood close to the wall. There is a stone without the cave door, about which the common people make a tour sunways.

A mile on the south-west side of the cave is the celebrated well called Toubir in Knahar, which in the ancient language is as much as to say, the well that sallied from one place to another: for it is a received tradition among the vulgar inhabitants of this isle, and the opposite isle of Colonsay, that this well was first in Colonsay, until an imprudent woman happened to wash her hands in it, and that immediately after, the well being thus abused, came in an instant to Islay, where it is like to continue, and is ever since esteemed a catholicon for diseases by the natives and adjacent islanders; and the great resort to it is commonly every quarter-day.

It is common with sick people to make a vow to come to the well, and after drinking, they make a tour sunways round it, and then leave an offering of some small token, such as a pin, needle, farthing, or the like, on the stone cover which is above the well. But if the patient is not like to recover, they send a proxy to the well, who acts as above-mentioned, and carries home some of the water to be drank by the sick person.

There is a little chapel beside this well, to which such as had found the benefit of the water, came back and returned thanks to God for their recovery.

There are several rivers on each side this isle that afford salmon. I was told by the natives that the Brion of Islay, a famous judge, is according to his own desire, buried standing on the brink of the river Laggan, having in his right hand a spear, such as they use to dart at the salmon.

There are some isles on the coast of this island, as island Texa on the south-west, about a mile in circumference; and island Ouirsa, a mile likewise in circumference, with the small isle called Nave.

The Names of the Churches in this Isle are as follows: Kil-Chollim Kill, St. Columbus his church near Port Escock, Kil-Chovan in the Rins, on the west side the isle; Kil-Chiaran in Rins, on the west side Nerbols in the Rins, St. Columbus his church in Laggan, a chapel in island Nave, and Kilhan Alen, north-west of Kilrow. There is a cross standing near St. Columbus’s or Port Escock side, which is ten feet high. There are two stones set up at the east side of Loch-Finlagan, and they are six feet high.

All the inhabitants are Protestants; some among them observe the festivals of Christmas and Good Friday. They are well proportioned and indifferently healthful.

The air here is not near so good as that of Jura, from which it is but a short mile distant; but Islay is lower and more marshy, which makes it liable to several diseases that do not trouble those of Jura. They generally speak the Irish tongue; all those of the best rank speak English; they use the same habit and diet with those of Jura.

This isle is annexed to the Crown of Scotland. Sir Hugh Campbell of Caddell is the King’s steward there, and has one half of the island. This isle is reckoned the furthest west of all the isles in Britain. There is a village on the west coast of it called Cul, i.e., the back part; and the natives say it was so called because the ancients thought it the back of the world, as being the remotest part on that side of it. The natives of Islay, Colonsay, and Jura say that there is an island lying to the southwest of these isles, about the distance of a day’s sailing, for which they have only a bare tradition. Mr. MacSwen, present minister in the isle Jura, gave me the following account of it, which he had from the master of an English vessel that happened to anchor at that little isle, and came afterwards to Jura, which is thus:

As I was sailing some thirty leagues to the southwest of Islay, I was becalmed near a little isle, where I dropped anchor and went ashore. I found it covered all over with long grass. There was abundance of seals lying on the rocks and on the shore; there is likewise a multitude of sea-fowls in it; there is a river in the middle, and on each side of it I found great heaps of fish bones of many sorts; there are many planks and boards cast up upon the coast of the isle, and it being all plain, and almost level with the sea, I caused my men (being then idle) to erect a heap of the wood about two stories high; and that with a design to make the island more conspicuous to seafaring men.

This isle is four English miles in length, and one in breadth. I was about thirteen hours sailing between this isle and Jura. Mr. John MacSwen, above mentioned, having gone to the isle of Colonsay some few days after, was told by the inhabitants that from an eminence near the monastery in a fair day they saw as it were the top of a little mountain in the south-west sea, and that they doubted not but it was land, though they never observed it before. Mr. MacSwen was confirmed in this opinion by the account above-mentioned; but when summer was over, they never saw this little hill, as they called it, any more; the reason which is supposed to be this, that the high winds in all probability has cast down the pile of wood that forty seamen had erected the preceding year in that island, which, by reason of the description above recited, we may aptly enough call the Green Island.

Isle of Jura newsletter October 2004

Welcome to your Isle of Jura newsletter. In this issue I am bringing you news of the Isle of Jura Music festival, Isle of Jura 365 : The Landscape Photographic Exhibition, and a poem on Farewell to Jura written in 1871.

Isle of Jura Music Festival 2004

The annual Isle of Jura music festival took place on the last weekend in September. This is now arguably the biggest event in the Jura calendar, attracting visitor numbers that more than double the population for the weekend.

This is no doubt due to the musical talent on display - ranging from the “locals” concert on the Friday night through to the main concert and dance on the Saturday, the numerous sessions, pipers, fiddlers, Gaelic singers, a jazz band, a bit of Irish/country and western and even a samba band (that managed to collapse the stage in the field!) At one point on Saturday night this author counted no fewer than 5 different places to go to hear music. Not bad for a wee island like Jura!

This year’s headline act at the main concert on Saturday night was the Michael McGoldrick Band. Supported by accomplished musicians there ain’t nothing Michael can’t do with a flute. Brilliant!

Meanwhile, up in the hotel bar the Gillespie brothers had them dancing on the tables with their pipes and accordion. Then it was the Jimmy Shandrix Experince that had us dancing in the hall until 3 am!

A few sore heads on the Sunday but it was on with the show! The Islay Pipe Band, the Jazz band (who also played in the church), singers and Gaorsach with their dancing display. Finally, the children put on a play with masks and shadow puppets in which Buie the Dwarf put paid to the wicked witch of Beinn an Oir (one of the Paps).

The bar remained packed for the rest of the night with a few game musicians battling on, but most of us by this time were partied out!

If you are interested in coming to Isle of Jura for the festival, it is held over the last weekend in September (a traditional Glasgow holiday weekend).

Accommodation books up very early but camping is available in the field in front of the Jura hotel. Please be warned, the place can be very busy.

Isle of Jura 365 : The Landscape Photographic Exhibition

A 3 year photographic project, carried out on Jura by Dr Gary Mckay from the USA, captured some 46,000 raw images in every season. The focus of the project was to interpret Gaelic place names within the landscape, and to capture them according to their translations. A selection of these images will be displayed at various locations on Jura, Islay and the mainland over the coming months. Go to www.theisleofjura.co.uk for further information on the exhibition and the island.

Isle of Jura Stories from the past

This month a poem, written by Jessie Scott on Feb 27th 1871 of Knockintavill (Barnhill). It is believed it was written just before she left for America knowing she would not be coming back to the Isle of Jura.

Farewell to Jura

No more I’ll climb the mountains high
To view the meeting sea and eye.
The stately vessels passing by
On every side of Jura.

Give honour to the great the brave,
To sordid souls the gold they crave,
Give me a walk at dusky eve
Along the shores of Jura.

How dear to me thy every scene,
When sun shines o’er the Western Main,
Or when he walks and spreads again
His golden beams o’er Jura.

By simple nature’s power impressed
There friendship glows in every breast
The stranger is a welcome guest
At every hearth in Jura.

From strife of noisy towns secure,
There mortals spend their lives obscure,
And long may harmony endure
Throughout the Isle of Jura.

Though ne’er to tread thy shores again,
My heart with thee shall aye remain
Where’er I wander I’ll retain
My dearest wish for Jura

Until next month, slainte. David

The following article was taken from "A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland" written by Samuel Johnson in 1775. In order to preserve the original version as much as possible I have not altered any of the spelling differences you will see.

The isle of Jura is by a narrow channel of about half a mile broad separated from Islay. The natives say that Jura is so called from Dih and Rah, two brethren, who are believed to have been Danes, the names Dih and Rah signifying as much as without grace or prosperity. Tradition says that these two brethren fought and killed one another in the village Knock-Cronm, where there are two stones erected of 7 feet high each, and under them, they say, there are urns, with the ashes of the two brothers; the distance between them is about 60 yards. The isle is mountainous along the middle, where there are four hills of a considerable height. The two highest are well known to sea-faring men by the name of the Paps of Jura. They are very conspicuous from all quarters of sea and land in those parts.

This isle is twenty-four miles long, and in some places six or seven miles in breadth. It is the Duke of Argyll’s property, and part of the Sheriffdom of Argyll.

The mould is brown and greyish on the coast, and black in the hills, which are covered with heath and some grass that proves good pasturage for their cattle, which are horses, cows, sheep, and goats. There is variety of land and water-fowl here. The hills ordinarily have about three hundred deer grazing on them, which are not to be hunted by any without the steward’s license. This isle is perhaps the wholesomest plot of ground either in the isles or continent of Scotland, as appears by the long life of the natives and their state of health, to which the height of the hills is believed to contribute in a large measure, by the fresh breezes of wind that come from them to purify the air; whereas Islay and Gigha, on each side this isle, are much lower, and are not so wholesome by far, being liable to several diseases that are not here. The inhabitants observe that the air of this place is perfectly pure, from the middle of March till the end or middle of September. There is no epidemical disease that prevails here. Fevers are but seldom observed by the natives, and any kind of flux is rare. The gout and agues are not so much as known by them, neither are they liable to sciatica. Convulsions, vapours, palsies, surfeits, lethargies, megrims, consumptions, rickets, pains of the stomach, or coughs, are not frequent here, and none of them are at any time observed to become mad. I was told by several of the natives that there was not one woman died of childbearing there these 34 years past. Bloodletting and purging are not used here.

If any contract a cough, they use brochan only to remove it. If after a fever one chance to be taken ill of a stitch, they take a quantity of ladywrack, and half as much of red-fog, and boil them in water. The patients sit upon the vessel, and receive the fume, which by experience they find effectual against this distemper. Fevers and the diarrhœas are found here only when the air is foggy and warm, in winter or summer.

The inhabitants for their diet make use of beef and mutton in the winter and spring, as also of fish, butter, cheese, and milk. The vulgar take brochan frequently for their diet during the winter and spring; and brochan and bread used for the space of two days restores lost appetite.

The women of all ranks eat a lesser quantity of food than the men. This and their not wearing anything strait about them is believed to contribute much to the health of both the mothers and children.

There are several fountains of excellent water in this isle. The most celebrated of them is that of the mountain Beinbrek in the Tarbat, called Toubir ni Lechkin, that is, the well in a stony descent. It runs easterly, and they commonly reckon it to be lighter by one half than any other water in this isle; for though one drink a great quantity of it at a time, the belly is not swelled, or any ways burdened by it. Natives and strangers find it efficacious against nauseousness of the stomach and the stone. The river Nissa receives all the water that issues from this well, and this is the reason they give why salmon here are in goodness and taste far above those of any other river whatever. The river of Crockbreck affords salmon also, but they are not esteemed so good as those of the river Nissa.

Several of the natives have lived to a great age. I was told that one of them, called Gillouir MacCrain, lived to have kept one hundred and eighty Christmasses in his own house. He died about fifty years ago, and there are several of his acquaintances living to this day, from whom I had this account.

Bailiff Campbell lived to the age of one hundred and six years; he died three years ago; he passed the thirty-three last years before his death in this isle. Donald MacNamill, who lives in the village of Killearn at present, is arrived at the age of ninety years.

A woman of the Isle of Scarba, near the north end of this isle, lived seven score years, and enjoyed the free use of her senses and understanding all her days; it is now two years since she died.

There is a large cave, called King’s Cave on the west side of the Tarbat, near the sea; there is a well at the entry which renders it the more convenient for such as may have occasion to lodge in it.

About two miles further from the Tarbat, there is a cave at Corpich which hath an altar in it; there are many small pieces of petrified substance hanging from the roof of this cave.

There is a place where vessels used to anchor on the west side of this island, called Whitfarlan, about 100 yards north from the porter’s house.

About four leagues south from the north end of this isle, lies the bay Da’l Yaul, which is about half a mile in length; there is a rock on the north side of the entry, which they say is five fathom deep, and but three fathom within.

About a league further to the south, on the same coast, lies the small isles of Jura, within which there is a good anchoring-place; the south entry is the best: island Nin Gowir must be kept on the left hand; it is easily distinguished by its bigness from the rest of the isles. Conney Isle lies to the north of this island. There are black and white spotted serpents in this isle; their head being applied to the wound, is by the natives used as the best remedy for their poison. Within a mile of the Tarbat there is a stone erected about eight feet high. Loch-Tarbat on the west side runs easterly for about five miles, but is not a harbour for vessels, or lesser boats, for it is altogether rocky.

The shore on the west side affords coral and coralline. There is a sort of dulse growing on this coast, of a white colour.

Between the north end of Jura, and the isle Scarba, lies the famous and dangerous gulf, called Cory Vrekan, about a mile in breadth; it yields an impetuous current, not to be matched anywhere about the isle of Britain. The sea begins to boil and ferment with the tide of flood, and resembles the boiling of a pot; and then increases gradually, until it appears in many whirlpools, which form themselves in sort of pyramids, and immediately after spout up as high as the mast of a little vessel, and at the same time make a loud report. These white waves run two leagues with the wind before they break; the sea continues to repeat these various motions from the beginning of the tide of flood, until it is more than half-flood, and then it decreases gradually until it hath ebbed about half an hour, and continues to boil till it is within an hour of low water. This boiling of the sea is not above a pistol-shot distant from the coast of Scarba Isle, where the white waves meet and spout up: they call it the Kaillach, i.e., an old hag; and they say that when she puts on her kerchief, i.e., the whitest waves, it is then reckoned fatal to approach her. Notwithstanding this great ferment of the sea, which brings up the least shell from the ground, the smallest fisher-boat may venture to cross this gulf at the last hour of the tide of flood, and at the last hour of the tide of ebb.

This gulf hath its name from Brekan, said to be son to the King of Denmark, who was drowned here, cast ashore in the north of Jura, and buried in a cave, as appears from the stone, tomb, and altar there.

The natives told me that about three years ago an English vessel happened inadvertently to pass through this gulf at the time when the sea began to boil; the whiteness of the waves, and their spouting up, was like the breaking of the sea upon a rock; they found themselves attracted irresistibly to the white rock, as they then supposed it to be: this quickly obliged them to consult their safety, and so they betook themselves to the small boat with all speed, and thought it no small happiness to land safe in Jura, committing the vessel under all her sails to the uncertain conduct of tide and wind. She was driven to the opposite continent of Knapdale, where she was no sooner arrived than the tide and wind became contrary to one another, and so the vessel was cast into a creek, where she was safe; and then the master and crew were, by the natives of this isle, conducted to her, where they found her as safe as they left her, though all her sails were still hoisted.

The natives gave me an account, that some years ago a vessel had brought some rats hither, which increased so much that they became very uneasy to the people, but on a sudden they all vanished; and now there is not one of them in the isle.

There is a church here called Ilillearn, the inhabitants are all Protestants, and observe the festivals of Christmas, Easter, and Michaelmas; they do not open a grave on Friday, and bury none on that day, except the grave has been opened before.

The natives here are very well proportioned, being generally black of complexion and free from bodily imperfections. They speak the Irish language, and wear the plaid, bonnet, etc., as other islanders.